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Christian Louboutin


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Vanity Fair España - 02.2020

VanityTrend /Entrevista

 

Obras de arte, colaboraciones de amigos como David Lynch, Dita vonTeese o Blanca Li y, por supuesto, tacones. Hablamos con el célebre zapatero antes de la inauguración de su gran retrospectiva en París.

 

A sus PIES, Mr. LOUBOUTIN

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Retrato de juventud de Christian Louboutin. Abajo, una de las siete vidrieras que La Maison du Vitrail ha creado para la muestra.

 

Ama España desde que leyó de niño el cómic Asterix en Hispania. “Es un país muy abierto. De Carlos V a Almodóvar, su hermosa cultura pervive hasta nuestros días”, me cuenta Christian Louboutin (París, 1963) desde sus oficinas en la capital francesa, de cuyo techo cuelga un galeón español de glitter. El, probablemente, zapatero más famoso del mundo —gracias a sus suelas de color rojo— visitó por primera vez nuestro país de adolescente con una mochila. “La gente allí es muy amable con los mochileros”, evoca. “Me llamó la atención vuestro orgullo. De lo que sois, de la belleza de vuestro país y de sus particularidades. Mi primer libro de mesa fue El arte del baile flamenco, que perdí hace años. Me pone nostálgico recordarlo.Incluso si pienso en religión, lo hago en el Barroco español”.

 

España es pues una de las protagonistas de Christian Loutoutin. l’Exhibition[iste], la retrospectiva que se inaugura el 26 de este mes en el Palais de la Porte Dorée de París. Un edificio art déco de 1931 próximo al lugar de nacimien to de Louboutin. Allí vio de adolescente el cartel que prohibía a los visitantes entrar con tacones y que le inspiraría uno de sus modelos más populares: el Pigalle, el favorito de Kate Moss o Zendaya. “Pasé horas en los cines de la cercana Avenue Daumesnil, que ponían películasindias y egipciastodo elrato”. Toutenkaboucle, Zigounette o Murderessson otros de los nombres de sus zapatos. “Algunos vienen de historias propias o que me han contado. No podría vivir sin escuchar noticias, cuentos… cotilleos”, reconoce.

 

Louboutin pasó pronto de los cines del distrito 12 de la capital a Le Palace, el mítico club nocturno del París de los añossetenta y ochenta, y al cabaret Folies Bergère, donde fue becario. La vida nocturna lo absorbió, pero le dejó tiempo suficiente para aprender el oficio con Roger Vivier—“El Fabergé de los zapatos”—y Charles Jourdan. Con este último conoció los entresijos de la industria. “Aquello no era Fantasía. Era más bien Durolandia. Y olía a pegamento”, ha confesado. Se estableció porsu cuenta en 1991 y pronto empezó a calzar a celebridades como Carolina de Mónaco o Catherine Deneuve. Hoy, Celine Dion y Victoria Beckham se cuentan entre sus fieles. O Melania Trump, lo que no le supone un problema en absoluto. “Nunca juzgo a mis clientas. No es mi papel. Yo propongo y las mujeres disponen”. Con Tina Turner vivió uno de sus escasos momentos “incómodos”, cuando le diseñó el calzado de un espectáculo en el Madison Square Garden de Nueva York. “Vi el concierto en primera fila. Fue increíble, pero tuve que cerrar los ojos en varias ocasiones por miedo a que se cayese”, admite. “Me llevó su tiempo sentirme el 95% seguro al ver a los artistas actuar con mis propuestas. Incluso hoy cruzo los dedos para que no haya incidentes”

 

Jennifer Lopez le dedica su canción Louboutins y Aretha Franklin pidió ser enterrada con un par de zapatos de la firma. “Siempre he tenido una relación muy cercana con la cultura popular, impregna mis diseños”, dice. “El modelo Pensées, por ejemplo, parte de las pinturas de Andy Warhol. Tengo que admitir que es siempre una sorpresa —de las agradables— escuchar a cantantes, actores o deportistas celebrar mi trabajo. Por eso en la exposición hay una sala dedicada al pop que mezcla fotografías de la alfombra roja, vídeos musicales y otras manifestaciones”, me adelanta.

 

La restrospectiva plantea un recorrido por sus primeros años, que incluye referencias a su adorado Egipto, donde tiene una de sus casa, o al Folies Bergère; en el llamado Cuarto del Tesoro se expone un zapato de cristal en un palanquín de plata, realizado por artesanos sevillanos de la Orfebrería Villarreal, y una instalación del artista paquistaní Imran Kureishi. Hay una sala dedicada a sus famosos nudes —que imitan el color de la piel— y, naturalmente, otra al fetichismo, que recupera su célebre colaboración con David Lynch. “Es un genio embrujado, un artista y un amigo. El término complementarios se queda corto. Yo solo puse los zapatos, él dotó al proyecto de vida y poder”, cuenta sobre Fetish, el proyecto que los unió en 2007. Además de Lynch, en l’Exhibition[iste] han participado su íntima amiga, la coreógrafa Blanca Li; Dita von Teese, que presta su holograma para una coreografía en el Teatro de Bután, otra de lasinstalaciones de la muestra; o Mika, por quien Louboutin decidió en 2012 lanzar colecciones masculinas. “Poco después, al comprobar que las mujeres se compraban las de hombre,saqué mi línea de deportivas”, revela.

 

Sus suelas rojas nacieron por casualidad, cuando usó la laca de uñas de una asistente. Por eso l’Exhibition[iste]reserva un lugar especial a la doble vida —y sentido— de los objetos, algo con lo que está más que familiarizado. “Cuando empecé a usar pinchos en el cuero negro, la gente lo percibió como una alusión a sadomasoquismo, pero lo era a la Haute Époque, un estilo de mobiliario de lossiglos XIVy XVcaracterizado por las maderas oscuras con remaches metálicos”, apunta. “La palabra sexy tiene un montón de significados y de connotaciones. Ser sexy es un estado mental, no tiene nada que ver ni con los centímetros del tacón ni con la altura en general”, zanja este parisino que, en persona, es más alto de lo que parece.

“AMO ESPAÑA DESDE QUE LEÍ ‘ASTÉRIX EN HISPANIA’. INCLUSO SI PIENSO EN RELIGIÓN, LO HAGO EN EL BARROCO ESPAÑOL”

 

“SER ‘SEXY’ ES UN ESTADO MENTAL QUE NO TIENE NADA QUE VER NI CON LOS CENTÍMETROS DE UN TACÓN NI CON LA ALTURA EN GENERAL”

 

:uk: Google translator

Spoiler

 

Works of art, collaborations of friends like David Lynch, Dita vonTeese or Blanca Li and, of course, heels. We spoke with the famous shoemaker before the inauguration of his great retrospective in Paris.


At your FEET, Mr. LOUBOUTIN

 

He loves Spain since he read as a child the Asterix comic in Hispania. “It is a very open country. From Carlos V to Almodóvar, his beautiful culture survives to this day ”, Christian Louboutin (Paris, 1963) tells me from his offices in the French capital, whose ceiling hangs a Spanish galleon of glitter. The probably most famous shoemaker in the world - thanks to his red soles - first visited our country as a teenager with a backpack. "The people there are very kind to backpackers," he recalls. “Your pride caught my attention. Of what you are, of the beauty of your country and its particularities. My first table book was The Art of Flamenco Dance, which I lost years ago. It makes me nostalgic to remember it. Even if I think of religion, I do it in the Spanish Baroque. ”


Spain is therefore one of the protagonists of Christian Loutoutin. l’Exhibition [iste], the retrospective that opens on 26 this month at the Palais de la Porte Dorée in Paris. An art deco building from 1931 near the birthplace of Louboutin. There he saw as a teenager the poster that prohibited visitors from entering with heels and that one of his most popular models would inspire him: the Pigalle, the favorite of Kate Moss or Zendaya. "I spent hours in the cinemas of nearby Avenue Daumesnil, which put Indian and Egyptian films all over." Toutenkaboucle, Zigounette or Murderess are other names of their shoes. “Some come from their own stories or that they have told me. I could not live without hearing news, stories… gossip, ”he acknowledges.


Louboutin soon moved from the cinemas of the 12th district of the capital to Le Palace, the legendary nightclub in Paris in the 1970s and 1980s, and to the Folies Bergère cabaret, where he was a fellow. Nightlife absorbed him, but left him enough time to learn the trade with Roger Vivier— "The Faberge of Shoes" —and Charles Jourdan. With the latter he knew the ins and outs of the industry. “That was not Fantasy. It was rather Durolandia. And it smelled like glue, ”he confessed. He settled on his own in 1991 and soon began to wear celebrities like Carolina of Monaco or Catherine Deneuve. Today, Celine Dion and Victoria Beckham are among their faithful. Or Melania Trump, which is not a problem at all. “I never judge my clients. It is not my role. I propose and women dispose ”. With Tina Turner lived one of his few "uncomfortable" moments, when he designed the shoes of a show at Madison Square Garden in New York. “I saw the concert in the front row. It was incredible, but I had to close my eyes several times for fear of falling, ”he admits. “It took me time to feel 95% safe when I saw the artists act with my proposals. Even today I cross my fingers so there are no incidents ”


Jennifer Lopez dedicates her song Louboutins and Aretha Franklin asked to be buried with a pair of signature shoes. "I've always had a very close relationship with popular culture, permeate my designs," he says. “The Pensées model, for example, is part of Andy Warhol's paintings. I have to admit that it is always a surprise - of pleasant ones - to hear singers, actors or athletes celebrate my work. That's why in the exhibition there is a room dedicated to pop that mixes photographs of the red carpet, music videos and other manifestations, ”he tells me.


The retrospective raises a tour through his early years, which includes references to his beloved Egypt, where he has one of his houses, or the Folies Bergère; In the so-called Treasure Room, a crystal shoe is displayed on a silver palanquin, made by Sevillian artisans from the Villarreal Goldsmith, and an installation by the Pakistani artist Imran Kureishi. There is a room dedicated to its famous nudes - which mimic the color of the skin - and, of course, another to fetishism, which recovers its famous collaboration with David Lynch. “He is a haunted genius, an artist and a friend. The complementary term falls short. I just put on the shoes, he endowed the life and power project, ”says Fetish, the project that brought them together in 2007. In addition to Lynch, his intimate friend, choreographer Blanca Li, participated in l’Exhibition [this]; Dita von Teese, who lends her hologram for a choreography at the Bhutan Theater, another installation of the show; or Mika, for whom Louboutin decided in 2012 to launch men's collections. "Shortly after, when I saw that women bought men's shoes, I took out my sports line," he reveals.

 

His red soles were born by chance, when he used an assistant's nail polish. That is why l'Exhibition [iste] reserves a special place for the double life - and meaning - of objects, something with which it is more than familiar. "When I started using spikes on black leather, people perceived it as an allusion to sadomasochism, but it was to the Haute Époque, a furniture style of the fourteenth and fifteenth centuries characterized by dark woods with metal rivets," he says. “The word sexy has a lot of meanings and connotations. Being sexy is a state of mind, it has nothing to do with the heel centimeters or the height in general, ”ditch this Parisian who, in person, is taller than he seems.

 

“I LOVE SPAIN SINCE I READ‘ ASTÉRIX IN HISPANIA ’. EVEN IF I THINK ABOUT RELIGION, I DO IT IN THE SPANISH BAROQUE ”


“BEING‘ SEXY ’IS A MENTAL STATE THAT HAS NOTHING TO DO WITH THE CENTIMETERS OF A HEEL OR WITH HEIGHT IN GENERAL”

 

 

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Edited by Kumazzz
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  • 1 year later...

Anyone listened to this podcast? Anything interesting? I see you need an account in order to get to listened to it, I don't know if I want to give my credit card details for that :dunno_grin:

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6 minutes ago, krysady said:

Anyone listened to this podcast? Anything interesting? I see you need an account in order to get to listened to it, I don't know if I want to give my credit card details for that :dunno_grin:

No, I haven't. But it should be for free, right?

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30 minutes ago, Prisca said:

No, I haven't. But it should be for free, right?

Yes, it's free, but you still need to make an account and give all the info, I gave up on the way :aah:

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3 minutes ago, krysady said:

Yes, it's free, but you still need to make an account and give all the info, I gave up on the way :aah:

I don't know if I should do one. I'm kind of afraid that if they have my credit card details, they'll still charge somewhere and sometime. :dunno_grin:

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1 hour ago, Prisca said:

I don't know if I should do one. I'm kind of afraid that if they have my credit card details, they'll still charge somewhere and sometime. :dunno_grin:

Probably it's not even Mika talking in it, or nothing new that we don't know already :original:

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  • 3 weeks later...

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